[jwebb335xi]

I recently installed an ER charge pipe with Forge diverters in my 2008 335 XI and thought I’d share a couple observations for anyone considering this – or a similar -combination.

First, in order to gain access to the old charge pipe and diverters, you’ll need to remove your cowl, intake scoop and factory air box. Instructions for that are all over this forum and others. I didn’t learn anything new. That said, when I installed the charge pipe and diverters, I ran across fitment issues that I hadn’t thought about before I started.

After you’ve fitted the charge pipe and start to install the diverters, I strongly suggest you DO NOT tighten everything down until you’ve test fit the air box. In my case, the front diverter vacuum nipple was pressed up against the air box (now shown by the red arrow after adjustment) and the rear diverter was pressed into the front diverter AND the inside of the drivers front fender/shock tower area.

In order to address these issues, IN MY CASE, I made two adjustments to the install. First, I trimmed the black 1” tubing that extends from the rear most diverter into its recirculation fitting by about 1.5 inches. That change allowed the rear diverter to stay off the fender wall as well as the front diverter. It’s hard to see, but the yellow arrow shows the tubing behind and a bit lower than the front diverter. Trust me, they don’t collide and the rear most diverter is off the fender wall by about 0.5”. Second, I trimmed the tube connecting the front diverter to the charge pipe (which was slightly curved) such that it’s about 1” shorter and most of the curve is gone. That allowed the nipple on the diverter to stay off the stock air box and the vacuum line isn’t pinched. If I were to do it again, I would have ordered a second straight tube for that diverter’s connection to the charge pipe and would have not used the curved one at all. In the case of my car that would have worked better. I doubt the folks using a single BOV rather than two diverters would have these issues, but I chose to go the more “stealth” route (i.e., no sound from BOV).

Finally, fitting the charge pipe into the throttle body AND intercooler tubing is a bit tricky. Take your time and consider lubricating the silicone tubing at the FMIC. A dab of water worked for me.

Happy motoring!

[Sgop335]

Interesting, I installed my vrsf cp this weekend and had my share of issues...Been thinking ER cp is the way to go. Looks like you had to deal with some frustration as well, perhaps not as bad as mine.

Things were relatively smooth, till I tried installing the tpms sensor w stock oring. It wont go in. Lubed everything nice, tried like 5 times it wont go in. Couldnt push it in any harder and it was squeezing the oring out (surely the stock fitment is not like that).

So I measured the hole sizes and found the vrsf smaller than the stock hole by 1mm or so. Stock measured 13mm, vrsf measured about 12mm.

Frustrated and tired at this point, had to take my wifes car and go to advance auto. Got a "smaller " oring, which was little too small (thats all i could find there). Had to use that oring and resort to teflon tape to get a tight seal!

Very frustrating! And poor dimensional quality on the vrsf.

Wrote a nice email to Mike at xph and explained all this, lets see what he can do.

I also find that vrsf does not have a flange for the bolt (stock does, believe ER does too). Altho, the cp is in a tight spot, I see that it can move and is retained strictly by the c-clip. It is clearly better to have the added support of the flange and bolt.

[Jklad]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Interesting, I installed my vrsf cp this weekend and had my share of issues...Been thinking ER cp is the way to go. Looks like you had to deal with some frustration as well, perhaps not as bad as mine.

Things were relatively smooth, till I tried installing the tpms sensor w stock oring. It wont go in. Lubed everything nice, tried like 5 times it wont go in. Couldnt push it in any harder and it was squeezing the oring out (surely the stock fitment is not like that).

So I measured the hole sizes and found the vrsf smaller than the stock hole by 1mm or so. Stock measured 13mm, vrsf measured about 12mm.

Frustrated and tired at this point, had to take my wifes car and go to advance auto. Got a "smaller " oring, which was little too small (thats all i could find there). Had to use that oring and resort to teflon tape to get a tight seal!

Very frustrating! And poor dimensional quality on the vrsf.

Wrote a nice email to Mike at xph and explained all this, lets see what he can do.

I also find that vrsf does not have a flange for the bolt (stock does, believe ER does too). Altho, the cp is in a tight spot, I see that it can move and is retained strictly by the c-clip. It is clearly better to have the added support of the flange and bolt.

I wouldn't worry about the flange for the bolt at all. I too had fitment issues with my forge DVs makin contact when installed on the vrsf cp, had to wedge some rubber grommets in a few places to keep them seperated and from hitting things. No issue with oring though.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by Sgop335

Interesting, I installed my vrsf cp this weekend and had my share of issues...Been thinking ER cp is the way to go. Looks like you had to deal with some frustration as well, perhaps not as bad as mine.

Things were relatively smooth, till I tried installing the tpms sensor w stock oring. It wont go in. Lubed everything nice, tried like 5 times it wont go in. Couldnt push it in any harder and it was squeezing the oring out (surely the stock fitment is not like that).

So I measured the hole sizes and found the vrsf smaller than the stock hole by 1mm or so. Stock measured 13mm, vrsf measured about 12mm.

Frustrated and tired at this point, had to take my wifes car and go to advance auto. Got a "smaller " oring, which was little too small (thats all i could find there). Had to use that oring and resort to teflon tape to get a tight seal!

Very frustrating! And poor dimensional quality on the vrsf.

Wrote a nice email to Mike at xph and explained all this, lets see what he can do.

I also find that vrsf does not have a flange for the bolt (stock does, believe ER does too). Altho, the cp is in a tight spot, I see that it can move and is retained strictly by the c-clip. It is clearly better to have the added support of the flange and bolt.

I didn't have any problems with O-rings or the connection at the throttle body with stock C Clamp. Generally, I'm pleased, but the job wasn't as easy as I expected. That said, the car hit 13 PSI today like a champ.

I hope your O-ring fix provides a great seal!!

[Sgop335]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

I didn't have any problems with O-rings or the connection at the throttle body with stock C Clamp. Generally, I'm pleased, but the job wasn't as easy as I expected. That said, the car hit 13 PSI today like a champ.

I hope your O-ring fix provides a great seal!!

Thats good your running 13psi. Running a tune?

I dont want to drive around with teflon tape in my charge pipe. I m not sure what to do. Part of me wants to go back to stock. Mike will contact vrsf with the details. Meanwhile i have some new orings, i found at work to try. But the stock one does not work w the vrsf.

Throttle body fit, wa fine even in my case.

[altostratus]

The install is pretty easy if you have an aftermarket intake. My AFE stage 2 made everything pretty easy to get to. Just make sure you tighten the intercooler side clamps down good if your running around 18psi. (Kablam! Limp mode)

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by altostratus

The install is pretty easy if you have an aftermarket intake. My AFE stage 2 made everything pretty easy to get to. Just make sure you tighten the intercooler side clamps down good if your running around 18psi. (Kablam! Limp mode)

18 PSI??? What have you done to get there. I think I can get about 16 once I add a new FMIC (Cobb Stage 1+ FMIC Agressive)

[altostratus]

Cobb stage 2+FMIC aggressive tune on 94oct with CP-E FMIC and FBO, it peaks around 19psi tapering to 14/15psi

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by altostratus

Cobb stage 2+FMIC aggressive tune on 94oct with CP-E FMIC and FBO, it peaks around 19psi tapering to 14/15psi

Outstanding. I don't have a new FMIC as of yet and I'm on the fence with respect to down-pipes... Was the change from Stage 1 + FMIC to Stage 2 + huge? I expect that's $1K or more in cost and, arguably, potentially problematic in terms of emissions, smell, SEL, etc..

Thanks for your thoughts.

Cobb AP V3, Cobb Drop in , ER Charge Pipe, Forge Diverters.. wheels, tires, etc..

[altostratus]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Outstanding. I don't have a new FMIC as of yet and I'm on the fence with respect to down-pipes... Was the change from Stage 1 + FMIC to Stage 2 + huge? I expect that's $1K or more in cost and, arguably, potentially problematic in terms of emissions, smell, SEL, etc..

Thanks for your thoughts.

Cobb AP V3, Cobb Drop in , ER Charge Pipe, Forge Diverters.. wheels, tires, etc..

Well, I personally have the CP-E downpipes with high flow cats, so their really isn't much smell, its getting protuned whenever this snow melts