[jwebb335xi]

Hey guys,

I worked on a vacuum line replacement project on my 2008 335 XI this morning to - hopefully - rid myself of the dreaded 30FF code and wanted to give you a couple tips if you haven't already done the job. Note, I’ve also replaced my charge pipe and diverters in an effort to resolve 30FF and to enhance performance, holding more boost if desired, etc..

First, by my count there are 14 vacuum lines that are easily replaced.

(3) On the driver’s side leading from the intake to the diverters (through a Y connector.

(2) Behind the oil filter housing that connect into the “hard pipes” that extent over the motor toward the passenger side of the car.

(2) On the passenger side of the motor extending from the "hard pipes" to the bottoms of the vacuum canisters.

(2) On the passenger side of the motor extending from the boost control solenoids to the top of the vacuum canisters

(2) Extending out of the boost control solenoids through T style connectors to the turbo actuators (front and rear). I didn’t do these because the dealer replaced my turbo units under warranty and it was obvious they also replaced these two lines.

(3) Connecting between the boost solenoids via T style connectors.

I’m attaching a picture from real OEM that shows the lines on passenger side and across the top of the motor as well as a picture from my dirty engine bay showing a closer view of the solenoid connections.

Second, if replacing ALL lines, I’d suggest buying 3 meters of the braided hose and 2 meters of the non-braided hose. You’ll have a bit left over, but that’s better than being short. This should cost less than $50.

Third, take your time and be careful. Patience will pay off. Removing the vacuum lines from their nipple connections is difficult as they’ve likely been there a very long time and have be subjected to heat, cold, water, salt, etc. Many of mine were stuck really well. USE A RAZOR TO CUT the hoses off the connectors rather than breaking those connectors. I tried to pull one off the bottom of a vacuum tank and the nipple broke off. Good news is the dealer had plenty of coffee and was able to get a new tank for me ($36 out the door).

Finally, in order to get good access to everything, I suggest biting the bullet and removing the following when you start: (1) cowl, (2) engine cover, (3) air filter box, (4) air scoop leading from the front of the engine bay into the air filter box, and (5) the vacuum canisters and brackets (this will allow access to the bottom nipples on the canisters and give you access to the front turbo actuator. As I noted, I didn’t do the lines to the actuators, but I suspect you may want to pull the heat shield away from the rear turbo to get that hose, but I’ve read others say you can yank that one as it’s probably metal. Personally, I’d rather have easy access rather than pulling and hoping nothing breaks.

Good luck - and may 30FF be gone!!

[BMW_drei]

Nice summary!
When replacing the lines, it's also a good time to replace the plastic nipples on the canisters with brass ones. There's a DIY around here somewhere, and it's really easy.

[EJ_3]

Nice. Replacing my lines and boost solenoids tomorrow. Hopefully, I can replace all the lines.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by Manny_World

Nice. Replacing my lines and boost solenoids tomorrow. Hopefully, I can replace all the lines.

If 30FF returns, boost solenoids will be my next step. That said, i had a chance to run the car pretty hard this afternoon and it didn't throw any codes!!

Where did you get your solenoids. Dealer quoted me $135 each. I've seen them as low as about $105, I think...

[EJ_3]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

If 30FF returns, boost solenoids will be my next step. That said, i had a chance to run the car pretty hard this afternoon and it didn't throw any codes!!

Where did you get your solenoids. Dealer quoted me $135 each. I've seen them as low as about $105, I think...

ECS Tuning for $90 each. Figured I'll replace both since everything will be apart.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335....0L/ES2581173/

[Mayuri Krab]

Cheers, too bad I didn't read this before attempting the fix and broke the plastic connector on one of my boost solenoid...

Now waiting for my replacement one from ECS and thought I might as well order 2 and replace them both.

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by Manny_World

ECS Tuning for $90 each. Figured I'll replace both since everything will be apart.

http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E90-335....0L/ES2581173/

Thanks MannyWorld!!

[EJ_3]

Originally Posted by jwebb335xi

Thanks MannyWorld!!

No problem, always glad to help.

I replaced the rear solenoid first and my wastegate rattle was gone on start ups and after revving. I then went ahead and replaced all the lines except for the ones coming from under the canisters to the hard lines and the ones to the actulators (all the lines looked good so I didn't touch the braided ones). A few hard pulls and it slowly started to come back, along with the 30FF. Only get it when going over 4k rpm. I think my issue is broken release tab on tube behind the oil filter housing. Maybe when I get into boost the pressure push it up and leak?

To add to your tips...
when replacing the solenoids, only loosen the bottom nut to the end of the thead and remove the top. You'll have enough room to wobble out the solenoid. The bottom nut can be hard to get back on if you have big hands.

[Mayuri Krab]

Originally Posted by Manny_World

To add to your tips...
when replacing the solenoids, only loosen the bottom nut to the end of the thead and remove the top. You'll have enough room to wobble out the solenoid. The bottom nut can be hard to get back on if you have big hands.

Cheers for this, I'll need to remember this when changing my solenoids, otherwise knowing me I'll probably drop the bottom nut and be hunting it for the rest of the day...

[jwebb335xi]

Originally Posted by Mayuri Krab

Cheers for this, I'll need to remember this when changing my solenoids, otherwise knowing me I'll probably drop the bottom nut and be hunting it for the rest of the day...

I dropped the clamp needed to attached a 1" hose while doing my diverters and charge pipe. Then, I had to put the car or stands and remove both the plastic and metal sections underneath to find it. That added about an hour or more all told. There are certainly worse problems to have, but it was pretty frustrating.