325i Juddering

BavarianMWfan · 01-30-2015, 09:24 PM

Hi, this is a second post regarding fluctuating idle and juddering when taking off in 1st gear.

I have done VANOS cleaning, MAF cleaning, Air Filter, 1 bottle of techron, battery, oil change = no improvement.

Just recently replaced spark plugs and all coils hoping that would fix this issue and no luck!

What am I missing???

mike3000fl · 01-30-2015, 09:37 PM

try buying gas somewhere else for a couple weeks.

ctuna · 01-30-2015, 10:13 PM

Are you on the original battery?
Also check the eccentric cam sensor for oil in
the contact area see the DIY in the DIY section.
(for the cam sensor replacement)
Its a manual as your post name suggests.
Juddering might be a clutch problem maybe.

BavarianMWfan · 01-30-2015, 10:50 PM

Quote:

try buying gas somewhere else for a couple weeks.

I always fill up from Shell, 91 V-power. I will try Petro Canada 91 or 94 octane.

Quote:

Are you on the original battery?
Also check the eccentric cam sensor for oil in
the contact area see the DIY in the DIY section.
(for the cam sensor replacement)
Its a manual as your post name suggests.
Juddering might be a clutch problem maybe.

I got a new battery 1 month ago due to low voltage. Its 790 amps cold crank vs 720 amps (OEM). Done at a BMW specialist shop, RMP Motors.

I will inspect the eccentric cam sensor.

If it is the clutch, would it need replacement soon?

Douche · 01-30-2015, 10:59 PM

No air leaks in the intake after the maf?

ctuna · 01-30-2015, 11:00 PM

New does not always mean good.
So you might check the battery anyway.
And the charging voltage(alternator voltage) when the car is on.

Did the problems start at the same time the battery was
changed?

What's the amp hour capacity on the new battery .
Does it meet or exceed the capacity on the old one?
Was the battery registered?
Try testing or putting a charge on the battery.

No stored codes as detected with a BMW capable code scanner?

there are pictures of oil in the plug in the following DIY.

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...c+shaft+sensor

BavarianMWfan · 01-31-2015, 05:06 PM

I didn't get time to check the eccentric shaft sensor today. After looking at the DIY, its something I don't want to attempt due to the complexity and time requirement. So if it is the sensor, I am putting a for sale sign on this thing. Spent way too much money in 8 months of ownership.

Quote:

No air leaks in the intake after the maf?

Don't know how to check for those but I inspected all the hoses and they are on correctly and all clamps are tight.

Quote:

New does not always mean good.
So you might check the battery anyway.
And the charging voltage(alternator voltage) when the car is on.

Did the problems start at the same time the battery was
changed?

What's the amp hour capacity on the new battery .
Does it meet or exceed the capacity on the old one?
Was the battery registered?
Try testing or putting a charge on the battery.

No stored codes as detected with a BMW capable code scanner?

The problems were there before the battery was replaced. In fact the vibration improved very slightly afterwards. Hence the spark plug and coil were replaced thinking it was an electrical issue.

I was told the new battery exceeds the capacity compared to the old one. And don't think the car showed any codes or the shop would have notified me.

BavarianMWfan · 02-17-2015, 02:33 PM

Okay, I just made an interesting discovery. I checked the battery voltage and it read 11.75 volts resting. From my research that is considered to be a dead battery. So I bought a Battery Tender Jr. and after 24 hours the battery was up to a healthy 12.4 volts and maintaining.

So I start it up and went for a drive. For the first 2 mins of driving there was NO juddering during take off. I was able to take off in 1st gear at 900 RPM without any shaking or juddering.

But my excitement was short lived. After a couple of stop signs I started to notice the juddering. After a long drive, I tested the battery voltage and it was at 12.0 volts!

Thinking the alternator was bad, I started the car again, and the voltage came back up to 13.5 volts. So it was charging the battery

I'm thinking this new battery I got (AGM) is not powerful enough to supply the ignition at low RPMs, or the alternator still needs to be replaced. Let me know what you guys think, the warranty on the battery expires in 2 days!

Douche · 02-17-2015, 02:37 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BavarianMWfan

Okay, I just made an interesting discovery. I checked the battery voltage and it read 11.75 volts resting. From my research that is considered to be a dead battery. So I bought a Battery Tender Jr. and after 24 hours the battery was up to a healthy 12.4 volts and maintaining.

So I start it up and went for a drive. For the first 2 mins of driving there was NO juddering during take off. I was able to take off in 1st gear at 900 RPM without any shaking or juddering.

But my excitement was short lived. After a couple of stop signs I started to notice the juddering. After a long drive, I tested the battery voltage and it was at 12.0 volts!

Thinking the alternator was bad, I started the car again, and the voltage came back up to 13.5 volts. So it was charging the battery

I'm thinking this new battery I got (AGM) is not powerful enough to supply the ignition at low RPMs, or the alternator still needs to be replaced. Let me know what you guys think, the warranty on the battery expires in 2 days!

Go get the battery back!!!!!!!

ctuna · 02-17-2015, 04:12 PM

Did you start out with and AGM battey?
Because most of the cars here don't.
If the original was white it wasn't a AGM from what
most of the posts say.
If you change to an AGM from Lead Acid you have to do
more that just register the battery you have to modify
the charging profile as described at the coding forums.
AGM battery may have different common voltages than lead acid.
A lead acid at 11.75 would be considered suspected of being bad.
The Lead Acid charging voltage is more like 14.5 volts normaly.

BavarianMWfan · 02-17-2015, 05:23 PM

I started out with the white top Lead Acid. On my receipt it says "changed battery and registered to AGM". I am guessing they changed the charging profile.

I called and scheduled an appointment for next week. Until then I am going to experiment. I put it back on the battery tender and its up to 80% charge.

I still don't understand, there isn't enough power for the coils even though the alternator is putting out ~13v at idle.

ctuna · 02-17-2015, 06:08 PM

I think you need to read what the programming is set to.

There is a large thread on setting up for a AGM.
Personally I think coils would be happier with a higher voltage.
My idle voltage with a normal battery is like 14.5

BavarianMWfan · 02-17-2015, 08:35 PM

Just went for a test drive around town.

Left the house with 12.01 volts and after the drive it was 11.94 volts.

The alternator is consistent at 14.18 volts with full load (lights, fogs + rear fogs, heater, radio).

I was able to take off @ 1000 RPM and there was very little juddering.

01-30-2015, 09:24 PM	#1
BavarianMWfan Private First Class 12 Rep 170 Posts Drives: - Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: GTA iTrader: (0)	325i Juddering Hi, this is a second post regarding fluctuating idle and juddering when taking off in 1st gear. I have done VANOS cleaning, MAF cleaning, Air Filter, 1 bottle of techron, battery, oil change = no improvement. Just recently replaced spark plugs and all coils hoping that would fix this issue and no luck! What am I missing???
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01-30-2015, 09:37 PM	#2
mike3000fl Banned 138 Rep 2,731 Posts Drives: 06 330i Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Tampa iTrader: (0)	try buying gas somewhere else for a couple weeks.
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01-30-2015, 10:13 PM	#3
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,104 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Are you on the original battery? Are you on the original battery? Also check the eccentric cam sensor for oil in the contact area see the DIY in the DIY section. (for the cam sensor replacement) Its a manual as your post name suggests. Juddering might be a clutch problem maybe. Last edited by ctuna; 01-30-2015 at 10:19 PM..
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01-30-2015, 10:59 PM	#5
Douche Banned 466 Rep 1,980 Posts Drives: Car Join Date: Jan 2015 Location: Location iTrader: (0)	No air leaks in the intake after the maf?
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01-30-2015, 11:00 PM	#6
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,104 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	New does not always mean good. New does not always mean good. So you might check the battery anyway. And the charging voltage(alternator voltage) when the car is on. Did the problems start at the same time the battery was changed? What's the amp hour capacity on the new battery . Does it meet or exceed the capacity on the old one? Was the battery registered? Try testing or putting a charge on the battery. No stored codes as detected with a BMW capable code scanner? there are pictures of oil in the plug in the following DIY. http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...c+shaft+sensor Last edited by ctuna; 01-30-2015 at 11:25 PM..
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02-17-2015, 02:33 PM	#8
BavarianMWfan Private First Class 12 Rep 170 Posts Drives: - Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: GTA iTrader: (0)	BUMP! Okay, I just made an interesting discovery. I checked the battery voltage and it read 11.75 volts resting. From my research that is considered to be a dead battery. So I bought a Battery Tender Jr. and after 24 hours the battery was up to a healthy 12.4 volts and maintaining. So I start it up and went for a drive. For the first 2 mins of driving there was NO juddering during take off. I was able to take off in 1st gear at 900 RPM without any shaking or juddering. But my excitement was short lived. After a couple of stop signs I started to notice the juddering. After a long drive, I tested the battery voltage and it was at 12.0 volts! Thinking the alternator was bad, I started the car again, and the voltage came back up to 13.5 volts. So it was charging the battery I'm thinking this new battery I got (AGM) is not powerful enough to supply the ignition at low RPMs, or the alternator still needs to be replaced. Let me know what you guys think, the warranty on the battery expires in 2 days!
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02-17-2015, 04:12 PM	#10
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,104 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	Did you start out with and AGM battey? Did you start out with and AGM battey? Because most of the cars here don't. If the original was white it wasn't a AGM from what most of the posts say. If you change to an AGM from Lead Acid you have to do more that just register the battery you have to modify the charging profile as described at the coding forums. AGM battery may have different common voltages than lead acid. A lead acid at 11.75 would be considered suspected of being bad. The Lead Acid charging voltage is more like 14.5 volts normaly.
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02-17-2015, 05:23 PM	#11
BavarianMWfan Private First Class 12 Rep 170 Posts Drives: - Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: GTA iTrader: (0)	I started out with the white top Lead Acid. On my receipt it says "changed battery and registered to AGM". I am guessing they changed the charging profile. I called and scheduled an appointment for next week. Until then I am going to experiment. I put it back on the battery tender and its up to 80% charge. I still don't understand, there isn't enough power for the coils even though the alternator is putting out ~13v at idle.
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02-17-2015, 06:08 PM	#12
ctuna Lieutenant General 1911 Rep 13,104 Posts Drives: 325xi 06 wagon MT Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Santa Cruz, Ca iTrader: (0)	I think you need to read what the programming is set to. I think you need to read what the programming is set to. There is a large thread on setting up for a AGM. Personally I think coils would be happier with a higher voltage. My idle voltage with a normal battery is like 14.5
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02-17-2015, 08:35 PM	#13
BavarianMWfan Private First Class 12 Rep 170 Posts Drives: - Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: GTA iTrader: (0)	Just went for a test drive around town. Left the house with 12.01 volts and after the drive it was 11.94 volts. The alternator is consistent at 14.18 volts with full load (lights, fogs + rear fogs, heater, radio). I was able to take off @ 1000 RPM and there was very little juddering.
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