[weareweird69]

So, I have a dilemma.

The 330 is out of spec for camber ... The front end has settled it seems because its about an inch too low per measurements given in the specs.

Id love to get a caster kit, and have it aligned into spec, but it seems that NO ONE makes one for the car.

Anyone have any information on the camber kits that are available for the car?

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by weareweird69

So, I have a dilemma.

The 330 is out of spec for caster. The front end has settled it seems because its about an inch too low per measurements given in the specs.

Id love to get a caster kit, and have it aligned into spec, but it seems that NO ONE makes one for the car.

Anyone have any information on the caster kits that are available for the car?

Ground Control has camber/caster plates -- give 'em a call, East of Sacramento, CA.

[weareweird69]

The one they have says its only for M3.

Any other options?


I dont race the car, ONLY driven on the street, so I don't want something thats going to be noisy.


EDIT:

http://www.ground-control-store.com/.../II=842/CA=182

Those look decent.



I just don't want to buy new coil springs, and then have them sag again in a few years…. then be back in the same boat.

And I don't want to lower the car, because them I'm still in the same boat.

[weareweird69]

no one else?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by weareweird69

no one else?

What's the caster at now?

Vorshlag camber plates are another option. The plates on my car are set up with the caster all way to the minimum stop and measures seven degrees.

[skier_du]

You could try the less expensive way of adjustable bushings.
http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_..._number=KCA430

[weareweird69]

Originally Posted by justpete

What's the caster at now?

Vorshlag camber plates are another option. The plates on my car are set up with the caster all way to the minimum stop and measures seven degrees.

Well, the car is out of spec for height first. When the car is lifted to the correct height for spec, it puts the car back into alignment.

I don't have the exact numbers, but it was out enough that it will eat the insides of both tires.

So, the options are either adjustable camber plates, or buy new coils for up front.

Id rather not buy the coils, and rather buy the camber plates.

I don't mind spending the money to make the car correct, but Id rather spend the money once and buy the right stuff.



I know that the cars are technically "fixed" in their alignment. And usually if something is out of alignment on one, its because something is worn out.

For me, its the coil springs on the struts that are worn and sagging.

Tires aren't cheap, but to replace the coils, then have to do it again down the road would anger me.

Id rather have the ability to change the caster to get the PERFECT ride and tire wear.



Im also at stock height, minus an inch up front since the car is sagging.

UNLESS the previous owner lowered the front of the car, but I doubt it.



So, thats where I am at.

Ground Control seems to look like it'll work, but anyone use their stuff?

How many miles are on your car? What kind of springs are you running? Assuming they are stock, how on earth can OEM springs (on an Xi no less) sag to over an inch?

Much confusion going on here.

[David1]

Either a coil is cracked at the base or something is bent. Castor doesn't change much when you lower an E9x chassis. Castor will not wear tires. Are you sure it is castor? Has the car hit a bad pot hole, curb, etc? Play in the strut mount when un loaded on that side? Something is not right here. Is there a tag on the springs with a number on it?

[weareweird69]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

How many miles are on your car? What kind of springs are you running? Assuming they are stock, how on earth can OEM springs (on an Xi no less) sag to over an inch?

Much confusion going on here.

just under 86,000

This was my confusion too. Height needed to be IIRC 24.39 I was at 23.5

Originally Posted by David1

Either a coil is cracked at the base or something is bent. Castor doesn't change much when you lower an E9x chassis. Castor will not wear tires. Are you sure it is castor? Has the car hit a bad pot hole, curb, etc? Play in the strut mount when un loaded on that side? Something is not right here. Is there a tag on the springs with a number on it?

Checked everything, I have friends that work in a shop, and the three of us were all over the front of the car. Nothing is moving loaded or unloaded, nothing bent, everything is in good shape.

Ill have to look at the springs again to see if there are any tags or labels on them.

The car drives perfectly fine, just wears the inside of the tires off.


My HUGE apologies on switching the caster camber term. I do that on a regular basis since I don't use the terms enough... *facepalm*

I have CAMBER issues.

Originally Posted by weareweird69

I don't have the exact numbers, but it was out enough that it will eat the insides of both tires.

This thread is worthless without this information. What about toe? Camber is just one small piece of the puzzle.

Something might be bent, etc. No way to tell without the specs.

[weareweird69]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

This thread is worthless without this information. What about toe? Camber is just one small piece of the puzzle.

Something might be bent, etc. No way to tell without the specs.

How is this thread worthless?

Toe was in spec. But its adjustable. If something was bent. Why was it that when we raised the car to the CORRECT ride height, it put the camber back in spec?





Also, how will the numbers tell you if something is bent? That is a serious question, not a smart ass remark.






I understand you have caster, camber, and toe. Each one effects the cars ride, handling characteristics, and tire wear.

The only thing that was out of spec was the camber. I don't have the exact numbers, but it was less (-) camber than was was supposed to be there. Hence wearing the inside of the tires.

I want to add more (+) camber to the car. the question was, WHICH kit, or HOW do I add more camber to the car.

I don't have the numbers, no. But when I look at the alignment machine and everything for camber is RED, (when Green is good, regardless of fine tuning to get the numbers where they should be, instead of just in spec/acceptable range). Im not even within the acceptable range, and on the car its not adjustable, so I want to make it adjustable so I can get it BACK in range.



When I go back in to get the car aligned, with the camber plates, I will get the numbers…


However, If I tell you camber is supposed to be (figuratively speaking) -0.7 I was at -1.3 Not just outside the acceptable range, but at least 0.5 out. Which is a lot. And even on both sides.

Its enough to wear the tires 1/4" different from inside to outside. Both sides.

Originally Posted by weareweird69

However, If I tell you camber is supposed to be (figuratively speaking) -0.7 I was at -1.3 Not just outside the acceptable range, but at least 0.5 out. Which is a lot. And even on both sides.

Its enough to wear the tires 1/4" different from inside to outside. Both sides.

No, it's not.

Just because one spec was "green" and one spec was "red" doesn't mean sh!t. Factory toe specs are all over the place. What you don't understand is that your toe could be "in spec" but still be more than enough to cause severe wear when comparing inside to outside, etc. wear rates.

Quite the opposite, you could have double the camber up front over what is considered "spec" but still not have any more noticeable wear when compared to OEM spec. Think about the guys that go with M3 control arms AND lower the car AND pull the pins AND add Dinan camber plates, etc. They're easily pushing more than -1.5 camber up front on the street with no abnormal wear.

Speaking of which, has your "mechanic" pulled the pins yet in order to appease your desires of more positive camber? Continue to think that a minuscule amount of negative camber is the only factor attributed to your abnormal tire wear and I guarantee you will still see the same wear pattern even after you bring the camber back "within spec."

[David1]

Originally Posted by FCobra94

No, it's not.

Just because one spec was "green" and one spec was "red" doesn't mean sh!t. Factory toe specs are all over the place. What you don't understand is that your toe could be "in spec" but still be more than enough to cause severe wear when comparing inside to outside, etc. wear rates.

Quite the opposite, you could have double the camber up front over what is considered "spec" but still not have any more noticeable wear when compared to OEM spec. Think about the guys that go with M3 control arms AND lower the car AND pull the pins AND add Dinan camber plates, etc. They're easily pushing more than -1.5 camber up front on the street with no abnormal wear.

Speaking of which, has your "mechanic" pulled the pins yet in order to appease your desires of more positive camber? Continue to think that a minuscule amount of negative camber is the only factor attributed to your abnormal tire wear and I guarantee you will still see the same wear pattern even after you bring the camber back "within spec."

Yup

[CALWATERBOY]

Originally Posted by weareweird69

just under 86,000

I have CAMBER issues.

So, you have problem springs, which have to be replaced regardless as they're sagging. Unusual!

Contact Ground Control and HP Autosport for advice re: new springs.

Name change from HP Autowerks to HP Autosport? Harold still there?

[justpete]

Originally Posted by CALWATERBOY

So, you have problem springs, which have to be replaced regardless as they're sagging. Unusual!

Contact Ground Control and HP Autosport for advice re: new springs.

Name change from HP Autowerks to HP Autosport? Harold still there?

Yep, Harold's still there. Exchanged emails a couple of weeks ago.

[weareweird69]

*sigh*

None of this makes sense to me.

Instead of putting everything in quotes and telling me red and green isn't good or bad.

Can you please explain this all to me. I don't lower these cars. And no one around here does ANYTHING to these cars.

So almost all of the above posts don't help me at all.

I don't want to replace the springs because I'll end up replacing them again later if they sag again. And new coils will run me almost 800 dollars just coils.

[weareweird69]

It is going to goto BMW…. Im tired of trying to figure it out. If somethings wrong, then Ill just pay them to fix it since "I" can't figure it out.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by weareweird69

So, I have a dilemma.

The 330 is out of spec for camber ... The front end has settled it seems because its about an inch too low per measurements given in the specs.

Id love to get a caster kit, and have it aligned into spec, but it seems that NO ONE makes one for the car.

Anyone have any information on the camber kits that are available for the car?

With the car slightly lower you should have negative camber. Caster and camber plates won't get you anymore positive camber than OE upper mounts. What you need to do is restore the vehicle to stock height and align.

If your negative camber is -1 to -1.5, you are still okay and will not wear the inside of the tires out.

[weareweird69]

Originally Posted by HP Autosport

With the car slightly lower you should have negative camber. Caster and camber plates won't get you anymore positive camber than OE upper mounts. What you need to do is restore the vehicle to stock height and align.

If your negative camber is -1 to -1.5, you are still okay and will not wear the inside of the tires out.

Like I said, its going to BMW to be fixed.

Im tired of dealing with it all. Just going to cost me more money.

I didn't want to "raise" the car back up, because I like the way its sitting but I don't want to be buying tires every year.

[HP Autosport]

Originally Posted by weareweird69

Like I said, its going to BMW to be fixed.

Im tired of dealing with it all. Just going to cost me more money.

I didn't want to "raise" the car back up, because I like the way its sitting but I don't want to be buying tires every year.

If the spring has lost its tension, it should be replaced. Alignment specs are set for a specific ride height so if your car is lower, it may be out of spec. Depending on how far off you are, you may still be okay.

[SGe92is]

This car uses a strut in the front, so as you lower the car, your negative camber will increase. There is no way around that unless you get adjustable camber plates.

I know I'm being vague here, but some additional negative camber in the front of your car is only going to make it corner better. As long as your toe is correct, then you wont get any additional wear from the camber. That is, unless it is way out of spec, say -3 degrees or so.

I have -1.1 degrees in front from lowering and from the M3 control arm conversion, though I would like to be around -2 to -2.5 degrees.