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V2, FMIC AA, CPE EXHAUST, RR DP's........5500 to spend
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12-11-2007, 08:20 PM | #1 |
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V2, FMIC AA, CPE EXHAUST, RR DP's........5500 to spend
Ok so here is the deal............I want to gain the most power for $5,500............
So I have compiled a list............ CPE Exhaust 1400 Riss Racing DP 1100 AA FMIC 1200 V2-procede 1550 5,250 I wanted everything to bolt on directly, without any cutting and from what I understand the AA FMIC is a direct bolt on and so is the CPE exhaust and RR DP's.................if you have any other ideas or opinnions, please let me know, i thought this is a good combo for both power and increasing reliability of power with the addition of the IC.............all installations will be done by me with my cousin who owns a body shop.......... EDIT:the V2 may change to HELIX if the outcome of Helix is very positive, reminder I also live on the east coast and am only 2~3 hours away from philly, here on long island |
12-11-2007, 08:22 PM | #2 | |
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If you wanna do the forum a huge favor do a before and dyno after each one.... If not, which I understand, at least a stock dyno and then one after all mods are done.... |
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12-11-2007, 08:27 PM | #3 |
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save yourself some cash and go:
UR catless coated downpipes AA FMIC CPE Exhaust JB2
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12-11-2007, 08:57 PM | #7 |
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im also thinking maybe he doesn't want anything that he can't put back to stop quickly hence stating he wants everything to be completely bolt on... so maybe the turbo swap isn't an option for him
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12-11-2007, 09:01 PM | #8 |
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Boosted, Go read the AA instructions on the FMIC. I believe when I read them it is not a true drop in,
you do have to perform some cutting. So going back to stock and having it be exaclty stock will be an issue. "The factory plastic shroud will need to be modified for the new intercooler. The modification can be done in the car but the bumper has to be lowered to get space to cut the shroud" "Cut shroud as shown in picture (use die grinder or air saw)." From: http://www.activeautowerke.com/faq/A...structions.pdf |
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12-11-2007, 09:10 PM | #9 | |
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12-11-2007, 09:13 PM | #10 | |
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Tell us those and maybe we could name a combo that would be better, and possibly cheaper.... |
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12-11-2007, 09:16 PM | #11 |
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im in the same boat as u my friend... im leasing the car.... plan to get aa xede or vip tunings custom software, intake, and exhaust... trying to get to about 370-380 whp... if ur looking for some really low priced rims i suggest u check out HP wheels .... good pricing, i plan on getting those wheels as soon as i pick up the car in jan
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12-11-2007, 09:16 PM | #12 | |
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The Spearco IC is far less cutting than AA and its done in fashion that if you had to put stock back in you would not be able to tell anyways. |
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12-11-2007, 09:17 PM | #13 |
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Well my main goal is just around 400whp, and running no cats, exhaust and DP's and maybe a V2 or Helix, would get me to that goal (im on east coast running minimum of 93 octane too)..........if anything I would do a lil street racing, but just looking to have a fast car, I am not one to go and track my car in the 1/4 mile, maybe I'll do that once but thats it...........
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12-11-2007, 09:20 PM | #14 |
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For a lease, you would probably want to do:
Piggyback Bolt on catback (I did britalman). CPE is also 100% bolton, AA has cutting. Downpipes Without the downpipes on 93 octane with Procede v2 + catback you are looking at 375 wheel horse power. I would do those two first and wait on downpipes until you see downpipe maps come out and get all the feedback from the early birds on results. Add the downpipes, with downpipe map in a few months and you will be right there at 400whp. |
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12-11-2007, 09:21 PM | #15 |
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I was gonna run stock rims because I wanted to keep the car stock looking except for the OEM front lip, which i will do...........I have been in this industry for a while my last BMW was a 330i with about 15k in mods and was into the car show scene, but once out of college and now a financial planner and owning a house, I just want a fast car where someone running up on me on a parkway or going 40 on a main road, will get smoked, GTOs and CTS V series cough cough
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12-11-2007, 09:22 PM | #16 | |
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2. JB2H/R, JBS simms(for no CELS) w/ Riss Racing or UR Catless DPs, VIP CAI, and VIP intercooler work(still stock intercooler so no problem there) will get you close with pump gas, and to 400 with race gas.... This is speculation, don't flame me. I am just giving ideas..... |
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12-11-2007, 09:30 PM | #17 | |
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I will not be getting a CAI, I had a bad issue with my CAI on my last car, can you say hydro lock............ |
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12-11-2007, 09:32 PM | #18 |
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12-11-2007, 09:41 PM | #19 |
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ya did it to my truck a couple years ago!! FUCK AEM!!
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12-11-2007, 09:52 PM | #20 |
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If it were me...
I'd make a decision on software based on performance/ reliability for the money. In my case I went with Burger Motorsports. I see that you're after big power...good luck putting it to the ground. Look for products that will work in harmony. I'm personally going to stay very close to stock...software...ITG drop in Panel filter, Drag radials.
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12-11-2007, 10:08 PM | #21 | |
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Yea well thinking that I am not dragging the car, traction is not always going to be an issue, unless I am doing some spirited driving.........obviously like I said, most of my battles are going at 40mph, where traction is not as much of an issue as if I were racing from a dig.....im thinking of screwing the IC and going with some cheap rims and a set of sticky tires |
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12-11-2007, 10:17 PM | #22 | |
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