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11-12-2013, 03:44 PM | #1 |
Ammar
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Clunk going over bumps
I dont really know what this is but i always hear a clunk going over any bumps. Usually sideways, I know im not hitting anything as the bumps clear the car for sure and im positive the car isnt bottoming out.
anyone know what this is? |
11-12-2013, 06:51 PM | #3 |
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Clunk. Front, rear, even more specific if you can be?
Possibilities include: Engine mount bolts (Z4M) - already noted Firewall strut mount bolts Rear anti roll bar bolts Last edited by Finnegan; 11-13-2013 at 02:09 AM.. Reason: Added links |
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11-12-2013, 10:01 PM | #5 |
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First thing to do is check the strut tower supports. Mine made a strange creaking in the center of the dash when going in and out of driveways. Tighten the bolts under the hood at both ends. I suspect that will cure it. I am also in Atlanta near Emory/Toco Hills. Where are you located?
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11-13-2013, 02:16 AM | #6 |
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Good one as well. Also the front or rear strut mount (and front strut mount bearing). Even with stock suspension, a possibility, we've seen these go in front with some heavy track use.
How many miles as well? Bushings wear, and it could be a lower control arm ball joint, other bushing, front ARB, etc. Bushing replacement are normal wear and tear replacement items on these cars 40-70K miles, depending on age, type of use, etc. A car with more miles is more prone to a "clunk" from worn parts. Since it's a Z4M I'd go after the known "loose" and breakage items first (rear ARB, front firewall, engine mounting bolts, the work along ruling out things based on likelihood (use/miles). |
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11-13-2013, 06:51 AM | #7 |
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Check the front sway bar end links for snugness first. If that is good, then disconnect the end links and while holding it in one hand, use the other hand to grab one threaded end at a time and move it around. Do you hear a very low volume sound similar to the clunk? If yes, then your end link has failed. Get new ones and put them on.
This happened on my Audi TT many years ago and that was the last thing I checked. Sound gets amplified through chassis into cabin. |
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11-13-2013, 08:28 PM | #8 | |||
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Quote:
stockkkk Quote:
Quote:
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11-13-2013, 11:35 PM | #9 | |
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11-15-2013, 02:43 PM | #10 | |
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11-16-2013, 11:08 AM | #11 |
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Thanks! Will check this out today and see if it makes a difference.
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11-16-2013, 08:54 PM | #12 | |
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Op, any luck?
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11-16-2013, 09:21 PM | #13 |
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That is not my car, but mine is equally as pristine. To be fair I don't drive mine a lot. 18,500 miles on the clock. Now that I bought a Tacoma to knock around in, I drive it even less. I hope the OP gets back and lets us know if my suggestion did the trick...
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11-17-2013, 02:17 PM | #14 |
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No luck. Those things are tighttt.
Going to check other things and let you guys know what it is. I'm not the most mechanically savvy person out there so can someone tell me where specifically I have to look for those other things?
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11-17-2013, 08:45 PM | #15 |
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Ok so after further driving I feel as if the clunk is closer to the dash than it is towards the front axle. How do you know if those braces are loose? I tugged hard but they were on pretty right
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11-17-2013, 11:41 PM | #16 |
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That is exactly where my sound was coming from(center of the dash at the firewall going over driveway entrances). If you use a closed end wrench you should be able to tighten them a bit. Mine were by no means loose, but a couple probably moved a 1/4 turn.
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11-18-2013, 12:32 PM | #17 |
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This is a not a "well it feels tight I guess" sort of fix. Break out the torque wrench and snug them down to 36 Nm. Over and over and over again people have this problem, say they don't think thats it, then are shocked when actually torqueing those nuts fixes the problem. "Coming from the dash" is also on the list of common descriptions of this problem.
Oh, and there is no excuse not to own a torque wrench. Not sure if OP does or not, just saying that in general. $20 at harbor freight, pick one up today. They are exactly the same ones Sears/Craftsman sells for $85. |
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11-18-2013, 01:13 PM | #18 |
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Haha ok. I shook it and it didn't feel loose but if you say there's some room for it to be tightened I'll bring out the torque wrench.
I'll keep you all updated.
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11-18-2013, 04:42 PM | #19 | |
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11-23-2013, 02:59 PM | #21 |
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Oh, and one more thing, is it really 36nm? Because I feel like that's a lot?
Is that a specific set and stone limit or is that what you have them down to?
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11-23-2013, 03:14 PM | #22 |
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My post, in this thread, post number 3, has a link to a thread that gives all the specifications for torque. There are two kinds of bolts, they have different specs, they require a different tightening process. One involves reusable bolts, locktite. The other are one use stretch bolts with a pre torque and angle torque. Part numbers in link IIRC.
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