02-13-2016, 11:47 AM | #1 |
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Down Pipe noob question
Im finally looking into putting money towards performance and overall sound of my exhaust... Thinking of opting for down pipe + tune first instead of spending same or more on ridiculously expensve exhaust systems. I know theres a few threads about this but really hard to comb through to get all the right answers, plus some are old threads and looking for more current updated advise on newer systems and such. The trends seem to change so quickly... So im getting pulled into so many directions its making my head explode. That said, i have a few noob questions that would hopefully not get me killed:
- will changing my down pipe change the sound of my stock exhaust? - Does it really matter which brand down pipe i get? I imagine they are all relatively the same...right? - i came a cross catted and catlless down pipes. Whats the difference performance wise? And why would someone be getting a catted one any way as a mod?? - does having a down pipe and tune require to have air intake upgrades as well?? What about just having down pipes only with no tune? Please advise. Much appreciated.
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02-13-2016, 03:00 PM | #2 | |
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- Changing DP with full stock Rear (aka Axel Back) and Stock Mid Pipes will change the sound. Usually makes it deeper on idle. When you start driving it might get more screamy on higher RPMs. That will depend on the DPs. Seeing videos/sound will give you a general idea but it doesn't tell the whole story. Reving is a bad way to give you an idea of a exhaust sound. - Brand doesn't matter AS much when it comes to Downpipes but the better known DPs are better. It's the same with most products really, trusted brands are better, the ones you don't know well you do it if you know them personally or just don't care. Evolution Racewerks, Gatini Flex v2, Akra, VRSF. Most of the well known Exhaust manufacturers have their own Downpipes. AA does, Eisenmann as well. There are a LOT lol. - Catless are usually most of the DPs on the forums because they remove the restriction on the downpipes, which will get you the most performance gains. Sadly I know you live in So Cal so you should know this will 100% give you issues when it comes to SMOG inspection. Catless DPs will also trigger your car's engine light, which is personally why I ended up not doing it. High Flow Cat DPs will try to keep your emission in tact so hopefully it won't trigger the engine light and stay within SMOG. Although you probably won't get as much in the performance aspect then a true Catless DP, and I believe they are also more pricey. - You do not need air intake. Air Intake is not necessary. Intakes are to do with airflow and engine, Downpipes are in a different area all together so they don't go hand in hand. I mean if you do DPs and Exhaust, yes changing Intake would give you more unique sound to your car but as you very well know Alvin, intakes are expensive and they do mod your engine technically. Something I personally would avoid at all cost. If you do DPs with Full stock Rear and Mid, you won't get that bad smell. If you change Mid Pipes, the stock Rear Muffle would control it as well, if you do just a full Exhaust + DPs you will get that smell and it gets very bad if you like having windows down. That is why jayyp removed his DPs.
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02-13-2016, 03:32 PM | #3 | |
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At the end of the day, im still really undecided where the $$ is better spent. I really just want a better sound, nothing too loud... I dont like screamy rice rocket exhaust... I prefer deep gurgles like supercars. Unfortunately, i dont drive much since im always so busy... And work only 2 blocks away. That said, Im not going for racing so HP gain is really not my priority... but can't justify the expense of these high priced m-taxed exhaust systems. Someone mentioned why not use that money for downpipe and tune so I would atleast get better performance and better bang for the buck... And improved sound. My Car is also leased so i wasnt planning on super expensive performance mods until ive decided to keep the car after lease end. I knew i wasnt alone in this dilemma! Lol Btw, see you at the arcadia meet. Ehronius and I are planning on rolling up there this weekend.
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02-13-2016, 04:16 PM | #4 | |
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And yes, the main reason why I choose not to do DP is because of the headache. DP gives you a lot of it, especially if you have bad OCD like I do. If you are keeping your car like me, DPs will give you headaches down the line. Tunes will also bother you due to the obvious. You can of course do the open and close valve method like what BMW is apparently doing with the M2 exhaust but again that's just a go around. For me there isn't a point in having valved if you have to control it. That is my problem. For me, it isn't worth it but that is really up to you to decide.
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02-13-2016, 04:23 PM | #5 | |
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02-13-2016, 04:43 PM | #6 | |
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For me, you either go do the entire Exhaust or none at all really. Kinda go all in or not deal. That is me of course. M-Tax is still M-Tax either way you're going to spend money
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02-13-2016, 07:42 PM | #7 | |
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By the way, whats the difference between a JB4 vs ESS Flash tune?!
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02-13-2016, 07:49 PM | #8 | |
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ESS T500 is a Software Flash Tune. (Send in your ECU to get bench flashed) I'm starting to consider this as well. JB4 or ESS Flash tune tom @ eas can shed some light on this topic.
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02-13-2016, 07:55 PM | #9 |
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Whats the difference in performance gain? Any downside for either one?
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02-13-2016, 08:07 PM | #10 |
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a jb4 or any piggy back is ultimately just a boost controller (adds more boost). There is no fuel/igntion/vanos control from it. A flash tune (ESS) changes all the values in the DME and is a "real tune" to me, but that's my opinion.
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02-13-2016, 08:32 PM | #11 |
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I'm not qualified to speak for both as I have not tested both. I'll let those who have speak for themselves.
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02-13-2016, 09:09 PM | #12 | |
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02-13-2016, 09:57 PM | #13 |
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no.
The difference between Flash and Piggy back from what Tom from eAs told me is, piggy back constantly fights your car while a flash tune won't since its written into the computer. JB4 is popular though, so they are doing something right. Both can delete the engine light from DPs. I'm unsure on the performance gain on either, but tom @ eas would know about the performance gain difference between ESS and JB4 since he is around them often on the Dyno. I know though JB4 is handy because of the different maps and what not. I'm not sure on ESS.
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02-15-2016, 09:31 AM | #15 | |
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The JB4 or Stage1 are happy on 100% stock cars, and the JB4 is happy on fully modded cars as well. We have a few customers even running stage1 on modified cars with downpipes . intakes, etc. Mike |
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02-15-2016, 12:15 PM | #16 | |
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Top quality DP and fitment is spot on Install time for a Jb4 is 1 hour so labor should be close to $100 That being said you can easily install it yourself. No need to pay someone to dpo it No You can either one on stock cars or fully modified cars
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02-16-2016, 05:44 PM | #17 |
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VRSF are very popular and great fitment and quality without the M tax. I'd recommend stick with the JB4 tune if you plan on going with downpipes as the stage 1 is primarily designed for stock vehicles without future modification. Although the stage 1 is priced well it has much to be desired once you get the mod bug and want more features and power. I think everyone else answered all your other questions but if not I'll be happy to clarify further.
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