Help installing rear silicone inlet (MMP)(pic)

wren57 · 08-13-2016, 03:46 PM

*edit* Is the inlet supposed to route through the red or green circle? It wants to naturally go through the red circle but then it's a bit too short to mate up with the turbo snout. It seems to me it should go through the green circle but I can't for the life of me get it to route that way.

Original post:

Quote:

Took about 30 minutes solo to get it into this position. Granted my intake manifold and all that is removed so it's much easier. Is this the correct routing, or is it supposed to go under the arm I've outlined in red? Really wish there were a way to remove that arm. Tried dremeling with no success and tried vice gripping the bolt with no luck either. Not enough room to get a bit on the head.

Help much appreciated! Would love to finish the install tonight.

LMB335IS · 08-13-2016, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wren57

Took about 30 minutes solo to get it into this position. Granted my intake manifold and all that is removed so it's much easier. Is this the correct routing, or is it supposed to go under the arm I've outlined in red? Really wish there were a way to remove that arm. Tried dremeling with no success and tried vice gripping the bolt with no luck either. Not enough room to get a bit on the head.

Help much appreciated! Would love to finish the install tonight.

It needs to come out. It's the support bracket for the old stock inlet. I used a small, low profile bit driver with a torx 30 bit that I cut down for even more space. It's a bitch but doable. The bolt only threads in 4 or 5 rotations.

RSL · 08-13-2016, 04:17 PM

+1 used the same tool. $20 for the kit at Walmart. I had the motor mount out while installing the turbos and that bracket bolt was still a pain. Have fun

pysical · 08-13-2016, 04:23 PM

I left mine in. I had the engine tilted forward because subframe was out so it was a little easier to get it in. I bent it back some as well.

wren57 · 08-13-2016, 05:05 PM

So to be clear, it does need to go where the arm is? Guess I'll be taking a trip to Wal-Hell.

wren57 · 08-13-2016, 07:56 PM

Got the bracket off finally. Can't get the inlet to move "up" into where the bracket was tho. Have tried a strap underneath and pulling up and just pushing with a large bar. No dice. Suggestions?

E92er · 08-13-2016, 08:50 PM

Does some of the heat shield have to be removed?

wren57 · 08-13-2016, 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by E92er

Does some of the heat shield have to be removed?

I wouldn't think so. It's very thin.

RSL · 08-13-2016, 09:58 PM

I didn't remove the heatshield, but you can bend it back a bit with a pry bar. Hosing the outside of inlet with WD40 helps it move around between the motor and firewall easier, but be very careful not to get any on the inside. Make absolutely sure that the inside of the inlet hose and outside of the turbo inlet snout are 100% dry/degreased or the inlet will slide off when you try to clamp it down. Even if it doesn't right away, it could still pull off down the road. The inlet snout on the rear turbo is very short, so make sure the clamp is as close to the compressor housing as possible to get a good bite with it.

RSL · 08-13-2016, 10:19 PM

Didn't see your edit. I have RBs, but I'm sure they are more or less the same and will pretty much only go on one way.

I was by myself, so used speaker wire around it to be able to get some weight on it to pull. I couldn't get a good grip on the inlet itself from underneath. I used soapy water on the outside at first, but WD40 wound up getting it done. No matter what, you're going to have to manhandle it through, it's not just going to slide in.

So you can see about where it all sits to make the connection:

LMB335IS · 08-14-2016, 09:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSL

Didn't see your edit. I have RBs, but I'm sure they are more or less the same and will pretty much only go on one way.

I was by myself, so used speaker wire around it to be able to get some weight on it to pull. I couldn't get a good grip on the inlet itself from underneath. I used soapy water on the outside at first, but WD40 wound up getting it done. No matter what, you're going to have to manhandle it through, it's not just going to slide in.

So you can see about where it all sits to make the connection:

We must have read the same DIY thread. Did the exact same thing and had it in place within 15 minutes.

RSL · 08-14-2016, 01:38 PM

Thank God for it or I'd still be out there pulling on it LOL

Fast35i · 08-14-2016, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RSL

Thank God for it or I'd still be out there pulling on it LOL

I tied a piece of card on the rear inlet and pull it down ontill it was close to go on the Turbo .. Works great took me 4 hours for the installment with the hotside outlet (mmp)

08-13-2016, 04:17 PM	#3
RSL Captain 648 Rep 779 Posts Drives: E92 ///M3 (Retired) / 335is Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: USA iTrader: (6)	+1 used the same tool. $20 for the kit at Walmart. I had the motor mount out while installing the turbos and that bracket bolt was still a pain. Have fun
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08-13-2016, 04:23 PM	#4
pysical Captain 129 Rep 712 Posts Drives: 2009 335xi Join Date: Feb 2016 Location: Laurel MD iTrader: (1)	I left mine in. I had the engine tilted forward because subframe was out so it was a little easier to get it in. I bent it back some as well.
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08-13-2016, 05:05 PM	#5
wren57 Roll Tide 591 Rep 2,345 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St Louis iTrader: (10)	So to be clear, it does need to go where the arm is? Guess I'll be taking a trip to Wal-Hell. __________________ Fix your broken/stripped cowl bolts with this elegant brass solution! http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?p=20230306
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08-13-2016, 07:56 PM	#6
wren57 Roll Tide 591 Rep 2,345 Posts Drives: 335i Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: St Louis iTrader: (10)	Got the bracket off finally. Can't get the inlet to move "up" into where the bracket was tho. Have tried a strap underneath and pulling up and just pushing with a large bar. No dice. Suggestions?
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-13-2016, 08:50 PM	#7
E92er New Member 12 Rep 16 Posts Drives: 2010 E92 335i Join Date: Jun 2016 Location: South FL iTrader: (0)	Does some of the heat shield have to be removed?
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08-13-2016, 09:58 PM	#9
RSL Captain 648 Rep 779 Posts Drives: E92 ///M3 (Retired) / 335is Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: USA iTrader: (6)	I didn't remove the heatshield, but you can bend it back a bit with a pry bar. Hosing the outside of inlet with WD40 helps it move around between the motor and firewall easier, but be very careful not to get any on the inside. Make absolutely sure that the inside of the inlet hose and outside of the turbo inlet snout are 100% dry/degreased or the inlet will slide off when you try to clamp it down. Even if it doesn't right away, it could still pull off down the road. The inlet snout on the rear turbo is very short, so make sure the clamp is as close to the compressor housing as possible to get a good bite with it.
	Appreciate 0 Quote

08-13-2016, 10:19 PM	#10
RSL Captain 648 Rep 779 Posts Drives: E92 ///M3 (Retired) / 335is Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: USA iTrader: (6)	Didn't see your edit. I have RBs, but I'm sure they are more or less the same and will pretty much only go on one way. I was by myself, so used speaker wire around it to be able to get some weight on it to pull. I couldn't get a good grip on the inlet itself from underneath. I used soapy water on the outside at first, but WD40 wound up getting it done. No matter what, you're going to have to manhandle it through, it's not just going to slide in. So you can see about where it all sits to make the connection:
	Appreciate 1 LMB335IS1299.00 Quote

08-14-2016, 01:38 PM	#12
RSL Captain 648 Rep 779 Posts Drives: E92 ///M3 (Retired) / 335is Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: USA iTrader: (6)	Thank God for it or I'd still be out there pulling on it LOL
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