[Wongway]

eh, you're definitely not helping the amp any using that gauge.

Think of it like this;
Amplifier will want as much power as you can throw at it. Especially in a case where you're trying to bridge a 4 down to get more power. That higher number gauge wire constricts the power flow putting a stress on the internal components. The fact that you said the bridged amp powering the subs cut out should have been the first clue you were using too thin a gauge.

So, in a nutshell, yes, that could be a cause. It can also cause damage to the internal components of the amplifier which should have obvious results...

You could change the power and ground wire gauges and see if anything changes, though at this point, I'm unfortunately leaning towards; amp not so good. (Don't get me wrong, I hope otherwise.)

Edit:
Supplying more power to speakers should never be an issue. The key though is Clean power. But to do that requires the amp is quality to begin with, and you're supplying that amp with quality power. So putting 200rms to speakers that ask for 150rms is usually a good thing.

Here's my amp.
It's only rated at 50watts rms x 8 channels.
But you can obviously see I didn't skimp on the power and ground wire to it (Blue and Grey)

[tdgesq]

Please diagram both the ground and power wire connections to your amps and ms-8, including any distribution blocks along the way. Identify the gauge and approximate length of each wire run.

If you are running 8 gauge from the battery, then to the solid 4, then to the solid 2, then to the ms-8; this equals bad things going to happen. In this scenario (and I'm not saying this is what you are doing) you have a potential demand of around 600-700 wrms. If you go here: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm and then go down to the window entitled "system power design assistant," you can calculate the gauge of power wire needed for the run to the distribution block and the run from the distribution block to each amp and the ms-8. You need similar gauge for each run of ground wire.

Whether you need the amp repaired or not, your system is going to be limited and potentially dangerous without the correct wire gauge. Too big is okay. Too small is not.

[SpdRcer43]

I will get back to you on the diagram. Thanks for offering to look at it. I just got back from the car audio place and the guy suggested moving my power wires from the distribution block directly to the battery post. He said the noise could be coming from the distribution block, which I don't doubt. It's an easy fix so I'm going to give that a shot. I had a hard time trying to get them to benchtest the amp.

[SpdRcer43]

Changing the connection point to the battery did not work.

[kaigoss69]

never mind.

[Wongway]

Did they change the wire gauge at least?

(I'd find it hard to believe that a true pro shop wouldn't recommend having that power and ground wire be a much thicker gauge)

[SpdRcer43]

Originally Posted by Wongway

Did they change the wire gauge at least?

(I'd find it hard to believe that a true pro shop wouldn't recommend having that power and ground wire be a much thicker gauge)

I will be doing that on my own...maybe tomorrow. But they definitely weren't suggesting it. Will keep you posted.

[SpdRcer43]

Originally Posted by kaigoss69

The MS-8 can pick up noise from the speaker wires being to close to the power wires. Doesn't have to be the speaker wire for the side that whines either. It can be any speaker wire. Then it will send the noise through the RCA on only on channel. It doesn't make sense and it took me forever to trouble shoot. Also, as suggested, turn the gains down. Only turn them high enough such that at -6db ms8 volume it gets as loud as you'd ever want it.

Sorry if it seems that I'm not listening to you, I definitely am. My gains are set pretty low and there really isn't any point where the speaker wires cross the power wires.

Let's see if I can figure out how to upload photos on this thing.

PICS: My browser isn't letting me upload. Try this link please:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...nc&usp=sharing

[tdgesq]

I don't see anything wrong with that setup. Most likely culprit is the amp.

[kaigoss69]

Originally Posted by SpdRcer43

Sorry if it seems that I'm not listening to you, I definitely am. My gains are set pretty low and there really isn't any point where the speaker wires cross the power wires.

Let's see if I can figure out how to upload photos on this thing.

PICS: My browser isn't letting me upload. Try this link please:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...nc&usp=sharing

No sorry, I had typed something up before I realized that you had already done this troubleshooting step, at least I think so? Then I just erased what I had written...

Anyway though, if you disconnect all RCAs from the Focal 2, and you still have the noise, it likely is the amp. I think I read that you had done that but now I'm not 100% sure...

Oh, and your power wiring is fine. No need to change it. It actually looks heavier than 8 gauge but the pictures may be deceiving. You can run at least 50 amps through 8 gauge power wires. That's roughly 500 - 600 Watts per wire. Even if it were undersized, it would not cause any noise.

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by SpdRcer43

Changing the connection point to the battery did not work.

I could have told you that :-) Your installer has no clue.

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by SpdRcer43

Sorry if it seems that I'm not listening to you, I definitely am. My gains are set pretty low and there really isn't any point where the speaker wires cross the power wires.

Let's see if I can figure out how to upload photos on this thing.

PICS: My browser isn't letting me upload. Try this link please:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...nc&usp=sharing

To be clear - noise is generally not induced in the speaker wires as they are AC - alternating current and high level. The real threat would be speaker wires or power wires close to the signal wires (RCA's) as they being low-level DC signals are susceptible to noise. http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/68467-post24.html

Edit: Thus you need to be concerned about the signal wires, and CROSSING them (at a 90 degree angle) is MUCH better than paralleling them.

[SpdRcer43]

For the record, I'm my own installer...I'm just trying to figure this thing out.
So I have the solid 2 unplugged right now and the bass sounds so much more clear and hasn't cut out yet. Leading me to believe the 4-gauge wire I just bought, might help.
Is it possible btw that the 3 amps are too much for that one ground point?

NEW PROBLEM:
Now one of my subs sound like it's blown. Note to self: buy a car with an upgraded system already in it!!

[tdgesq]

If you search around you will find several posters who have had problems with that particular ground point. Some haven't. Before I start an install now, I always search a related car forum to determine a good ground point where no one has problems. I've just run into so many ground loop issues over the years that I decided it isn't worth taking the chance. Straight to the negative battery post or to where the negative battery wire connects to the frame are the best candidates in our cars.

I agree with kai that it is unlikely your power wire to the solid 4 is the problem. The 4 ga upgrade can't hurt though.

[SpdRcer43]

Do you guys think my RCAs could be picking up noise from the remote wire?

[taibanl]

Originally Posted by SpdRcer43

Do you guys think my RCAs could be picking up noise from the remote wire?

I would say "i doubt it". That bein said i had less noise when i switched from a straight to a twisted wire harness.

Have you checked the actual equipment (amps) yet?

[tdgesq]

Yeah, very unlikely that you are getting induced noise from the remote power wire. The current draw on the remote will be somewhere in the milliamps.

[SpdRcer43]

Originally Posted by taibanl

I would say "i doubt it". That bein said i had less noise when i switched from a straight to a twisted wire harness.

Have you checked the actual equipment (amps) yet?

I had the audio shop bench test the solid 2 and they said it's fine. A) I dont have confidence in them, and b) it's gotta be a wiring or ms8 issue.

I bought the ms8 as a refurb so I'm tempted to contact jbl to see what the original problem was.

[tdgesq]

Not sure how the ms-8 can be the problem when it is even hooked up to the amp. You can always unhook power to the ms-8 by removing the fuse at your junction near the battery.

[SpdRcer43]

Originally Posted by tdgesq

Not sure how the ms-8 can be the problem when it is even hooked up to the amp. You can always unhook power to the ms-8 by removing the fuse at your junction near the battery.

Good idea. I assume the amps will still trim on without the ms8 fuse.

[SpdRcer43]

Quick update:
~The "blown sub" was actually a dime that slipped down and was laying on the speaker.
~I've decided I'm going to unplug the tweeter in the right door. This will eliminate the noise and give my ears some peace. I don't think it will affect the driver's sound too much. Seems that most the music I hear is from the center channel complimented by the driver's side door.
~Also, I just happened to stumble across a thread which recommended using a 200hz crossover point for the Earthquakes. Although, I thought I read that I should not go above 130 in multiple posts—200 sounds so much better. My subs no long cut-out and the bass sounds great and are well-balanced with the front speaks. I don’t really understand why this is but it works. If you have time, please explain it to me, otherwise, I’ll be unplugging that tweeter, and putting the trunk back together, hopefully for the last time.
~FYI- I’m selling a bunch of stock speaker items. Hit me up if you’re interested in purchasing (center grill, window trim, MS8 remote, left side trunk trim, MS8 wire harness, stock 4” speakers and underseat speakers, etc).

[SpdRcer43]

I was just about to unplug the tweeter when I decided to buy an impromptu amp from Best Buy so I could know once and for all if the Solid 2 was good or bad. Sure enough, the new Alpine MRV-F300 eliminated the noise.

I've written Focal and the Woofer Etc to ask from help and in my own words, they both said, "go to hell". It's six months past warranty because it's taken me that long to troubleshoot so they won't help.

Next step is selling the Solid 2. I wanted my system to be all Focal but the peace and quiet will be worth the system not matching. I will admit I can still hear a faint alternator rev but I think it's normal sound from the engine bay--it's quiet enough that I can't really tell where it's coming from.