Track forum general chit chat.

[1FastSicilian]

What wheel studs are you guys all running?

Did a break bleed yesterday and while having the car in the air, did a little inspection and noticed my lugs weren't completely tight, even after using Loctite..

they have about 8-9 track days on them and 10k miles.. I took them out, inspected them, put Loctite and retorqued them...

Now that I'm thinking of it, Should I have just replaced them?

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

What wheel studs are you guys all running?

Did a break bleed yesterday and while having the car in the air, did a little inspection and noticed my lugs weren't completely tight, even after using Loctite..

they have about 8-9 track days on them and 10k miles.. I took them out, inspected them, put Loctite and retorqued them...

Now that I'm thinking of it, Should I have just replaced them?

Yes, replace them.

Review the tech info here - https://www.core4motorsports.com/tech

I can't seem to find it now but Core4 recommended replacing the wheel hub every 2 years (without having to service the studs before the hub).

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

What wheel studs are you guys all running?

Did a break bleed yesterday and while having the car in the air, did a little inspection and noticed my lugs weren't completely tight, even after using Loctite..

they have about 8-9 track days on them and 10k miles.. I took them out, inspected them, put Loctite and retorqued them...

Now that I'm thinking of it, Should I have just replaced them?

Yeah my bimmerworld ones came with instructions that recommend seasonal replacement if you track it.

[1FastSicilian]

thanks guys!

I'll order another set from Motorsport hardware.. cheap security.. It'll cost me an hour of time and $120...

[M3SQRD]

Originally Posted by Ximian

Running XP20 front and rear and I haven't noticed issues with the rear locking up. Lowering the car with stiffer K&W HAS helped.

I'm also braking less than I used to so there's that...

I intentionally run a more aggressive pad on the rear at certain tracks to shift the bias a bit more to the rear. I’ve never had any issues doing this going back to my e46 M3 around 2004. At a minimum, I run the same compound front and rear. PFC doesn’t make these compounds any more but PFC 03 F + PFC 05 R or PFC 01 F + PFC 03 R. You can do similar things with PFC 01, 11, 13 and 39.

[roastbeef]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

What wheel studs are you guys all running?

Did a break bleed yesterday and while having the car in the air, did a little inspection and noticed my lugs weren't completely tight, even after using Loctite..

they have about 8-9 track days on them and 10k miles.. I took them out, inspected them, put Loctite and retorqued them...

Now that I'm thinking of it, Should I have just replaced them?

MSI. if i remember correctly, studs have a proactive replacement of about 2 years.

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by roastbeef

MSI. if i remember correctly, studs have a proactive replacement of about 2 years.

Just ordered from Motorsport Hardware… I decided I’m going to do the core4 hubs with press in this off season so I’ll run these for now

[danvitmon]

Hey guys, my electric fan is cracked at one of the blades and am looking to replace it. I have a friend with a BMW wholesale account that should be able to get a new assembly for me for less than list price (~$1100).

Is that my best option as opposed to buying a used one? Those are still 300-400 and who's to say that one won't crack within a year or two. This is still a dual purpose car and frequently gets driven on the street. Chinese ones are not an option and I believe the fan blade is not removable from the motor.

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by danvitmon

Hey guys, my electric fan is cracked at one of the blades and am looking to replace it. I have a friend with a BMW wholesale account that should be able to get a new assembly for me for less than list price (~$1100).

Is that my best option as opposed to buying a used one? Those are still 300-400 and who's to say that one won't crack within a year or two. This is still a dual purpose car and frequently gets driven on the street. Chinese ones are not an option and I believe the fan blade is not removable from the motor.

I would personally go used and try to get it off a newer model. A used fan off a 2012 or 2013 with low miles will probably last you for years.

[pirategenes]

Originally Posted by danvitmon

Hey guys, my electric fan is cracked at one of the blades and am looking to replace it. I have a friend with a BMW wholesale account that should be able to get a new assembly for me for less than list price (~$1100).

Is that my best option as opposed to buying a used one? Those are still 300-400 and who's to say that one won't crack within a year or two. This is still a dual purpose car and frequently gets driven on the street. Chinese ones are not an option and I believe the fan blade is not removable from the motor.

Check out this Sal's Garage YouTube video here, that should help you with a solution:

TLDR: E60 535i fan blade fits and is much cheaper.

Good luck!

[jmeenach]

Originally Posted by 1FastSicilian

What wheel studs are you guys all running?

Did a break bleed yesterday and while having the car in the air, did a little inspection and noticed my lugs weren't completely tight, even after using Loctite..

they have about 8-9 track days on them and 10k miles.. I took them out, inspected them, put Loctite and retorqued them...

Now that I'm thinking of it, Should I have just replaced them?

Apex (I believe made by Macht Schnell) - recommended studs be replaced annually if tracked.

[CamasM3e93]

Originally Posted by jmeenach

Apex (I believe made by Macht Schnell) - recommended studs be replaced annually if tracked.

What about 14 year old oem bolts, same rules apply?

BTW, whomever suggested in a post that I get a Schroth harness if Recaro’s aren’t in my future- thank you. Holy crap what a difference. And down the rabbit hole I go….I’ll be back in 35k….

[danvitmon]

Originally Posted by pirategenes

Check out this Sal's Garage YouTube video here, that should help you with a solution:

TLDR: E60 535i fan blade fits and is much cheaper.

Good luck!

I remember there was some cheaper solution that was from a different model but could never find a vid/thread on it. Thanks for the help

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

What about 14 year old oem bolts, same rules apply?

BTW, whomever suggested in a post that I get a Schroth harness if Recaro’s aren’t in my future- thank you. Holy crap what a difference. And down the rabbit hole I go….I’ll be back in 35k….

now go get a hans.

[kolosy]

how much pad do you try to have left before you swap pads? i've got 6.7mm left on my DS1.11s (they started at 18mm, so call it 40%?)

swap em? or get one more track day? going to road america on Wednesday, deciding what to do. I'll take the set with them, but obviously easier to do at home than trackside. for reference, 5 days (including 2 at RA) is what got me from 18 to 6.7, so it's plenty left on that basis, i just don't know if there's a performance cliff past some point.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by kolosy

how much pad do you try to have left before you swap pads? i've got 6.7mm left on my DS1.11s (they started at 18mm, so call it 40%?)

swap em? or get one more track day? going to road america on Wednesday, deciding what to do. I'll take the set with them, but obviously easier to do at home than trackside. for reference, 5 days (including 2 at RA) is what got me from 18 to 6.7, so it's plenty left on that basis, i just don't know if there's a performance cliff past some point.

when the pad material is equal to or less than the backing plate. :P

[kolosy]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

when the pad material is equal to or less than the backing plate. :P

Ha, saw that advice elsewhere too. I’m 0.2mm above!!

[Ximian]

Originally Posted by CamasM3e93

What about 14 year old oem bolts, same rules apply?

BTW, whomever suggested in a post that I get a Schroth harness if Recaro’s aren’t in my future- thank you. Holy crap what a difference. And down the rabbit hole I go….I’ll be back in 35k….

I ended last year's track season short of one wheel and list of replacement parts due to broken one year old OEM bolts (replaced with new before first track event of the year). Good idea to replace those yearly and more often if you plan on using slicks.

[omgzirra_exe]

Originally Posted by kolosy

Ha, saw that advice elsewhere too. I’m 0.2mm above!!

i typically just do what jeff tells me to do even though i don't run APs lol

[1FastSicilian]

Originally Posted by omgzirra_exe

when the pad material is equal to or less than the backing plate. :P

lol thats the gauge I used for myself

[kolosy]

ended up doing them because road america is fast. glad i did.. is it me or are these glazed?

[jmeenach]

Originally Posted by kolosy

ended up doing them because road america is fast. glad i did.. is it me or are these glazed?

Glazed or not, those pads have seen some better days LOL. You made the right call by swapping pads.