[pt00069]

Ok, I had catless dps and fmic (both from VRSF) installed about 4-5 days ago. I was having an issue with vibration at idle that was caused by one of the pipes resting on the subframe of the car (has since been fixed). The main issue I am having now is codes and CELs that the car is throwing.

I remapped to Stage 2+ aggressive and it threw several codes. Reset ECU and remapped to Stage 2+ sport.. same thing. I have done some research and I think that one of my pre cat O2 sensors was damaged or went bad during installation. The car has 83k miles on it so its probably close to being due for new ones anyways.

The codes that it is throwing are always for bank 2 before catalyst and mixture control 2. Also had a few misfire codes. Here is the list of codes.
P2099
P2C32
P2C28
P29E1

I am getting ready to purchase both precat O2 sensors off of Amazon (Bosch 17098 and Bosch 17102) but I just wanted to check with everyone to see what yall thoughts are first. Thanks for any help/advice!

[pt00069]

Also, I am getting a rattle coming from the dps when I make a sharp left turn and at WOT when it is changing gears. I think that the pipes are still close to the subframe and a bolt underneath the car and that is whats causing the rattle. I couldn't twist the pipes at all since there is a two bolt flange on one side that does not move/rotate. So my only option right now is to clamp the pipes close together and take a metal tie around both of them to keep the pipes about a 1/4" closer to each other. Unless anyone has any other ideas?

[pt00069]

Anyone? :

[wiskerbisskit]

With catless DP's your going to have o2 sensor codes regardless. You need jb4 or cobb or something to erase the faults everytime you start the car. As for the rattle, are you sure the dp connector that conencts to the exhaust is tight? I have the same cats and I dont hear anything.

[pt00069]

Originally Posted by wiskerbisskit

With catless DP's your going to have o2 sensor codes regardless. You need jb4 or cobb or something to erase the faults everytime you start the car. As for the rattle, are you sure the dp connector that conencts to the exhaust is tight? I have the same cats and I dont hear anything.

Yes, I am at stage 2 with Cobb. And yes the connectors are as tight as they can possibly go.

[335NJ]

Did you make sure the O2 sensors in the DPs were put back in the correct pipes? All sorts of problems pop up when they're switched by accident.

[pt00069]

Originally Posted by 335NJ

Did you make sure the O2 sensors in the DPs were put back in the correct pipes? All sorts of problems pop up when they're switched by accident.

Yep, I went back to the shop and all 4 seemed to be in the right pipes. They even had them labeled with tape still. It seems to only be one O2 sensor (the one in bank 2).

[pt00069]

Anyone else know anything about these specific codes and what may be causing them? Any ways to test if the sensor is bad with a Cobb AP?

[Tiago@VRSF]

If the shop let you leave the first time with a downpipe resting against the sub frame there's a good chance they aren't familiar with the proper positioning of the o2 sensors. The grey sensors go on the short pipe, black sensors on the long pipe. This applies to the front and rear set of sensors. Almost ever CEL you get after installing downpipes is related to swapped sensors (not counting the catless code) and they are rarely damaged during install.

In order to properly align the downpipes they just have to loosen the v-bands, remove the 4 bolts at the catback, re-clock, tighten the v-bands, tighten the bolts. It's an incredibly simple procedure, and it's even easier when the installer knows what they're doing

[pt00069]

Originally Posted by Tiago@VRSF

If the shop let you leave the first time with a downpipe resting against the sub frame there's a good chance they aren't familiar with the proper positioning of the o2 sensors. The grey sensors go on the short pipe, black sensors on the long pipe. This applies to the front and rear set of sensors. Almost ever CEL you get after installing downpipes is related to swapped sensors (not counting the catless code) and they are rarely damaged during install.

In order to properly align the downpipes they just have to loosen the v-bands, remove the 4 bolts at the catback, re-clock, tighten the v-bands, tighten the bolts. It's an incredibly simple procedure, and it's even easier when the installer knows what they're doing

That's Tiago. Yeah I wish I had the time and I would have done it all myself lol. I did check the O2 sensors myself though. The gray sensor went to the back pipe (cylinders 4-6) and the black went to the front. I called Cobb a few days ago and the person I spoke with seems to think that it was damaged instead of swapped also. If they were swapped wouldn't it be throwing codes for both bank 1 and bank 2?

[pt00069]

I'll order the two new O2 sensors tomorrow and get them on asap and hopefully this will solve my problem. I'll definitely adjust the pipes so they have enough clearance on both sides. May also put some heat wrap on the dps in case they shift any to reduce the possibility of a rattle.