05-07-2018, 04:55 PM | #1 |
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320i --> 328i : Opinions?
Hi all,
My 320i is aging - she'll be hitting 80k miles by the end of this year and is currently at 76k. I'm thinking about trading her in for a higher optioned 328i or a 335i. I had a great CPO experience and would like to go CPO again. Was curious if anyone has gone from a 320i to a 328i and can shed light on whether it was worth it. Are there certain model years where some things have changed for the better? Just curious if the 320i to 328i jump is big/noticeable enough to justify not simply putting a stage 1 tune in and calling it a day. Thx, Nathan |
05-07-2018, 05:22 PM | #2 |
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I had a 320 and went to a 335. Go 335, you won't regret it. I think you'll regret the 328.
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BrettKA7567.50 |
05-07-2018, 06:14 PM | #4 |
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Might as well get a CPO 335. Should be able to get one for $15-$18k. 328's can be had for $12k. Depends on year but with low miles it won't be expensive. You can do MPPK or find one with it and maybe a BMS tune. Some cosmetic mods to make it stand out from the crowd.
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05-07-2018, 06:35 PM | #5 | |
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To answer OPs question, either model will feel like a big jump in performance/power from the 320i. Obviously the 335i moreso. From that perspective I think it will come down to budget. If a 335i optioned the way you like is available and in range then I think that’s the way to go. |
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05-07-2018, 08:54 PM | #6 | ||
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05-07-2018, 09:23 PM | #7 |
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Not sure where these prices are coming from. Got my 2015 328i CPO in low 20's. Used 335s (not CPO) were high 20s to 30s.
Also, no buyers regret, 328i is plenty power for getting in trouble. Put a tune for close to 300hp and you are set. Or if you have the money always go top |
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05-07-2018, 10:50 PM | #8 |
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It is noticeable but not as much as going for a 335 or 340i.
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05-08-2018, 12:04 AM | #9 | |
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The 320 is basically a ripoff. If the car started at about $25000 it'd be one thing. One thing I preferred though with the 320 is it was lighter and I can feel the difference. Its like 350lbs but you feel it. The 335/340 is heavy. It also flies compared to both cars but honestly, the gap between the 328 and 335 isn't that pronounced. And again, the 35/340 is heavy as shit. But in daily driving, it won't matter much. The 335/340 will be faster, will sound better, will have more standard features, will cost more to insure, will get worse MPG and will still have the same annoying squeaks, rattles and build quality issues that plagues all 3 series. If your budge allows though, Id skip the 28 and get the 335
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05-08-2018, 07:14 AM | #10 |
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So you would trade a '13 320 for a '12 335? I suppose if there was a '12 with 35K miles, that might work; but as you said, they would not be CPO, which is what OP said he was looking for.
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05-08-2018, 07:20 AM | #11 |
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As a modified 320i owner myself, my car makes more power than a stock 328i. The biggest issue I have with the N20 is the lack of low end power, it's a dog. I'm looking at a 335i or a 550i. The 328i is going to be an absolute let down. Go for the bigger motor and 335i.
In terms of model years, I'm personally looking at 2014+. A 2013 335i is a solid buy though I think. As an R&D engineer myself, I'm always skeptical on that first model year of a car, bugs / features etc... Main reason I was going 2014+ is because it gets me NBT and EWG on the 335i, or the N63 Technical Update "TU" on the 550i. |
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05-08-2018, 08:03 AM | #12 |
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For the f30 series, I went from 318d to 328i only because I maxed out the 18d and it still was nowhere near 28i levels
In your case, a simple tune will get to 28i and a down pipe will get you past it
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05-08-2018, 08:28 AM | #13 | |
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Get the 335i. You will not enjoy the heft of the 550i. After being a 3 and 1 series owner, the 550i was pimp cool for awhile and the V8 was great, but that car was never fun to drive and I tired of mine very quickly. From a 320i to a 550i will be a real let down in the fun to drive category. Plus the F30 is big enough and I never used the extra size of the 5 series.
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05-08-2018, 08:31 AM | #14 |
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just skip the 335i and get a 2016 340i. you have a 2013 320xi with almost 80K. Why switch to another car with at most 2 MY newer then to switch again very soon after?
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05-08-2018, 09:28 AM | #15 | |
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OP, if boredom isn't driving you to look at other cars, I would suggest slapping on a tune and seeing if that power satisfies you.
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05-08-2018, 10:08 AM | #16 |
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Go with 335i or 340i, you won't regret it...
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05-08-2018, 10:46 AM | #17 |
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Plus the I6 in the 335 is awesome to listen to. Makes a beautiful distinct sound, especially if paired with an MPE.
I just installed MPPK and MPE on my 335 and I have a smile on my face each time i hit that gas! |
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05-08-2018, 01:18 PM | #18 | |
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OP should keep in mind that he can also run jb4 on his 328 to be in line with a 335, and could run jb4 on a 335 and... on and on, so that argument doesn't really apply. Here is a dyno of a 328i with jb+ (granted with 93 octane, so results may vary if you're running 91). 258hp and 303tq at the wheels is pretty legit for a daily driver that can comfortably get 35mpg highway. I gotta say that the 300 or so lb ft of torque my car is pushing rarely feels like a 'let down' to me. But again, budget permitting I think he should go with a 335 http://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sho....php?t=1323147
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05-08-2018, 01:52 PM | #19 | |
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320i with JB4 dyno at 266hp and 278 ft-lb 328i stock dyno at 234hp and 241 ft-lb 328i with JB4 dyno at 268hp and 302 ft-lb So I would tune what you have and keep it, or get the extra 2 cylinders.
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05-08-2018, 07:06 PM | #20 | ||
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320i N20 w/ Methanol Injection https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1508531 |
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05-08-2018, 07:06 PM | #21 |
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Thanks for all of the replies everyone! It's given me a lot to think about (and probably confused me even more on whether to go 328i or 335i). I see a '15 m-sport 335i in my area for ~$30k - which doesn't seem too bad.
I want to avoid anything past a stage 1 tune - I had a bad experience with the JB4 I put on my 320i. Without identifying myself too much, shortly after installing a JB4 on my 320i. I started hearing a whine noise when I touched the gas. Dealer determined it was a blown turbo. Car had approximately 60k miles on it. I don't know what the fail rate is for turbos at that mileage, but I attribute part of the issue to the tune. Someone from the N54 forums looked at my logs and insisted they looked okay - but another, seemingly experienced poster, said they weren't. I yanked it. Dealer never detected it or didn't care that I had a tune (I removed it before all services/visits) and replaced it, saving me from an $8k bill. I suppose the best course of action is to walk into a dealer and test drive both. The butt dyno is the only thing that can make a decision like this... |
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05-08-2018, 07:08 PM | #22 | |
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