[hz_diesel]

Hey guys. Just trying to get some input on my situation.

To be as brief as possible. I have a 2012 n55 xdrive coupe. I am FBO with cobb v3, drop in air filter, 7 inch fmic and wagner high flo cat. I have never had any misfiring issues and change my oil every 7k.

I had a stage 2 hybrid turbo installed on my car with new inlets and a upgrade DV. The trans fluid was changed as well. Everything was going well until we tested the car to make sure it was running properly. The car ran but was running rough. After about 30 - 45 mins the car died at a stop and wouldn't start again, didn't get any warning codes. We ended up towing it back to the shop and checking all the connections, plugs and etc the next morning. We looked up the codes and all I got was low voltage and fuel pressure.

-Checked the plugs. Soaked in fuel so seems to be a timing issue.
-Fuel primes, very strong smell.
-Replaced the battery with a brand new one.(mine was getting old anyways)
-Checked the turbo and inlet with a camera to make sure nothing broke off.
-Checked the o2 sensor.
-Checked to make sure the cat wasn't melted, it was good.
-Low compression about 85/90 through out.

I am towing it back to my mechanics shop, we ordered the tool to adjust to put the car back into time. Million dollar question is did we miss anything? We plan to go through the whole car again but trying to make sure we don't miss something obvious here.

Anyone have a similar situation happen to them?

[weehe126]

All your plugs were soaked with fuel or just some? The only failures I've seen so far are bent rods and spun bearings. Im guessing you didn't do the compression test while warm since it wont start, so those results don't mean much. You can look in each cylinder with a scope to see if the pistons hit valves. Or you can take off the VC and see if it is out of time. I'm guessing you have codes, would help if you posted them.

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by weehe126

All your plugs were soaked with fuel or just some? The only failures I've seen so far are bent rods and spun bearings. Im guessing you didn't do the compression test while warm since it wont start, so those results don't mean much. You can look in each cylinder with a scope to see if the pistons hit valves. Or you can take off the VC and see if it is out of time. I'm guessing you have codes, would help if you posted them.

Car is at my mechanics, I will put the codes up when I have a chance but like I said only had the low volt code and fuel pressure. Yes compression test was done cold because car won't start and all of the plugs were soaked.

Planning to take VC off but mechanic won't have time till Friday.

[Supra2k6]

so probably not it but when i did my inlets and charge pipe i took off my manifold which meant i had to unplug the power cables running under the manifold. battery, starter, etc

One wasn't plugged in all the way and car shut down on me while driving took me half a day to find but everything went back to normal. worth checking

Do you have any codes?

Car will most likely run richer since your dumping more air (inlets) into the engine.

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by Supra2k6

so probably not it but when i did my inlets and charge pipe i took off my manifold which meant i had to unplug the power cables running under the manifold. battery, starter, etc

One wasn't plugged in all the way and car shut down on me while driving took me half a day to find but everything went back to normal. worth checking

Do you have any codes?

Car will most likely run richer since your dumping more air (inlets) into the engine.

I'll take a look at it just in-case. Hoping for a idiotic mistake.

[weehe126]

If all your plugs are soaked it means there is no spark. Make sure the coil pack connectors are fully connected under the intake manifold.

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by weehe126

If all your plugs are soaked it means there is no spark. Make sure the coil pack connectors are fully connected under the intake manifold.

There should be spark because when we were testing it my mechanic got shocked when I tried to crank the engine (he became the ground)

[9krpmrx8]

How much do you trust your mechanic?

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by hz_diesel

There should be spark because when we were testing it my mechanic got shocked when I tried to crank the engine (he became the ground)

Then all of the coils are probably not grounded

[JLGM4]

Curious to see the outcome

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

How much do you trust your mechanic?

Someone else brought this up. He is a good friend of mine. If he caused it he would own up to it. I've known him personally for a while.

[9krpmrx8]

Yeah, I just question is skills and methods since he is getting shocked verifying spark.

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8

Yeah, I just question is skills and methods since he is getting shocked verifying spark.

That was my fault. We were working on the car Sunday when he was sick so we could try and clear out the shop for his next job. Not his fault just one of those moments

[9krpmrx8]

Ah Okay, well I would really try and troubleshoot the issue. Get yourself a FSM and follow the troubleshooting guide bit by bit.

[weehe126]

Do you have port injection?

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Do you have port injection?

No port and stock bucket.

[djjsarai]

Originally Posted by hz_diesel

Hey guys. Just trying to get some input on my situation.

To be as brief as possible. I have a 2012 n55 xdrive coupe with under 40k miles on the OD. I had recently got the 35k maintenance done at BMW under the prepaid maintenance plan and got some new spark plugs from it. I am FBO with cobb v3, drop in air filter, 7 inch fmic and wagner high flo cat. I have never had any misfiring issues and change my oil every 7k.

I had a stage 2 hybrid turbo installed on my car with new inlets and a upgrade DV. The trans fluid was changed as well. Everything was going well until we tested the car to make sure it was running properly. The car ran but was running rough. After about 30 - 45 mins the car died at a stop and wouldn't start again, didn't get any warning codes. We ended up towing it back to the shop and checking all the connections, plugs and etc the next morning. We looked up the codes and all I got was low voltage and fuel pressure.

-Checked the plugs. Soaked in fuel so seems to be a timing issue.
-Fuel primes, very strong smell.
-Replaced the battery with a brand new one.(mine was getting old anyways)
-Checked the turbo and inlet with a camera to make sure nothing broke off.
-Checked the o2 sensor.
-Checked to make sure the cat wasn't melted, it was good.
-Low compression about 85/90 through out.

Ended up towing it to BMW with roadside assistance because my SA said he would take care of me under my cpo. They brought the car in "unofficially" ran through a few tests and pretty much wasted my time. Told me the exact same thing I already knew. They believed it was a timing issue or a cylinder was. Key words are they believe... Can't do any work due to them believing if they tried to warranty it BMW NA would have to come down and approve it.

I am towing it back to my mechanics shop, we ordered the tool to adjust to put the car back into time. Million dollar question is did we miss anything? We plan to go through the whole car again but trying to make sure we don't miss something obvious here.

Anyone have a similar situation happen to them?

Don't forget to do the VANOS timing manual adjustment. Same thing happened on my car and thats what I forgot. Did not buy the fancy tool, just the allen key and took it and backed out the gear all the way. Then in the car, with out starting it fully, put the car in the "on" position, then you should head the motor working and reading its own end. Might need fine tuning like I did later, but helped immensely. lol

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by djjsarai

Don't forget to do the VANOS timing manual adjustment. Same thing happened on my car and thats what I forgot. Did not buy the fancy tool, just the allen key and took it and backed out the gear all the way. Then in the car, with out starting it fully, put the car in the "on" position, then you should head the motor working and reading its own end. Might need fine tuning like I did later, but helped immensely. lol

Noted. Planned to get the vanos checked out as well since there is a recall for my model year.

[djjsarai]

Originally Posted by hz_diesel

Noted. Planned to get the vanos checked out as well since there is a recall for my model year.

They did the VANOS recall on mine. Apparently it's just bolts. Adjusting the VANOS timing is interesting. It's touchy.

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by djjsarai

They did the VANOS recall on mine. Apparently it's just bolts. Adjusting the VANOS timing is interesting. It's touchy.

is there a link anywhere on adjusting the VANOS timing?

[djjsarai]

Originally Posted by hz_diesel

is there a link anywhere on adjusting the VANOS timing?

There is. If you pm me, I will send you it once I get to my office.

[hz_diesel]

Originally Posted by djjsarai

There is. If you pm me, I will send you it once I get to my office.

Ty. Pmd