[scottp999]

Weird. I know there is an auto disconnect if in an accident, but the wire melting near the front box is strange. Was is touching something hot, or was the current melting the wire from the inside out?

So many fuses on this car you would think it would pop a fuse somewhere before damage.

[jpsimon]

Originally Posted by scottp999

Weird. I know there is an auto disconnect if in an accident, but the wire melting near the front box is strange. Was is touching something hot, or was the current melting the wire from the inside out?

So many fuses on this car you would think it would pop a fuse somewhere before damage.

She made it sound more like an electrical failure of some sort unrelated to any mods and not just as simple as it touching something hot. (haven't been in any accidents either)

[joec500]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

they said it's melting/discolored behind the glove box

Sounds suspect to me...So is the issue is the wire has gone bad? if that's the case, can't you splice and replace? Unless they have to track down the cause of what's melting the wires?

[R1000K3]

The car should not be driven at all before the problem is fixed correctly. You may not have time to stop and jump out of the car if a harness fire starts.

[Bakeme521]

Just to clarify, the car still drove completely fine? Didn't die while driving down the road did it? This thread has me a little worried...

[jpsimon]

Originally Posted by R1000K3

The car should not be driven at all before the problem is fixed correctly. You may not have time to stop and jump out of the car if a harness fire starts.

The car is at the dealer. I already gave them the OK to do this, i'm not risking any bigger electrical issue

[jpsimon]

Originally Posted by Bakeme521

Just to clarify, the car still drove completely fine? Didn't die while driving down the road did it? This thread has me a little worried...

The power blipped while driving a couple times - gave me the AWD/DSC disabled warning - but drivability didn't change.

[xclone]

That's really strange. If the battery cable is burning thru the insulation then it has to be the result of a high current draw - most likely from a short or a misbehaving component. I don't know much about the electrical systems on the BMW but unless the cable is somehow bad, there has to be an actual reason for the increased power draw (coming from an EE background).

I don't blame you one bit in getting it replaced - just make sure they've thoroughly checked out the reasons of WHY it happened.

[scottp999]

They are not talking about replacing the entire main wiring harness are they? Isn't there a repair piece for just the section? Reason I ask is because of the price you mentioned, was that the part or part and labor? What was the part name?

I don't see anything near that price on realoem except the entire car main harness.

[Bakeme521]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

The power blipped while driving a couple times - gave me the AWD/DSC disabled warning - but drivability didn't change.

OMG I hope I am not having this problem, you have PM coming your way for more details when I get to work.

[jpsimon]

Originally Posted by scottp999

They are not talking about replacing the entire main wiring harness are they? Isn't there a repair piece for just the section? Reason I ask is because of the price you mentioned, was that the part or part and labor? What was the part name?

I don't see anything near that price on realoem except the entire car main harness.

What she quoted me was the part and 16 hours labor.


but the SA just called me back a couple minutes ago to say: "ok i misunderstood what the tech told me, the tech NEEDS to check behind the glove box because he THINKS that might be the issue"... so this isn't actually confirmed yet

thanks for scaring the shit out of me!

[scottp999]

Thread below isn't 335, but an interesting read. Could it be somehow the IBS (Intelligent Battery Sensor) has issues? Also there are so many modules that could have gone bad. I hope the tech does a ton of testing before suggesting a fix and can explain whey they are fairly certain they have determined a root cause:

check out posts 21,22, and 24:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=490168

[acdHQK713K]

Really hope you don't have future electrical gremlins. Always a fear when messing with this stuff.

[scottp999]

This 325 had the key stuck issue and it was just a bad battery:

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showth...%22accident%22

This guy had crazy electrical problems and it turned out to be a bad positive battery cable (<$200):

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=334159

This poor guy had electrical issues, towed it, then 4 days latter a battery fire destroyed the entire car (pics in the thread):

http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=577054

[jpsimon]

1m coupe if my car goes up in flames!

[inthemiddle]

i had that blip a couple times.... but mine was caused by corrosion around the positive terminal....

i don't see how it can take 16 hours to replace the wire from the back to the front... when i ordered the cable i got that one you are talking about by accident and had to send it back... it was $300-400 and yea.. looked like a pain.. but 16 hours seems steep...

can't splice it really, i wouldn't anyway.. that's sketchy.. and it's a FAT cable...

so was the update in your first post the same "not confirmed" as the few hours ago note here ?? still up in the air ??

[inthemiddle]

also, maybe just seriously cleaning the positive contact and terminal ?? seems stupid to suggest it, but checking connections being tight doesn't help if there is some corrosion in there... take it off, make it all shiny again and put it back on... (post and clamp)

i don't think, even if the wire was melting, that would be the cause.... seems that it's sketchy battery connection, but if the wire was hot/melting... (well i would certainly replace it if it was, but yea.. gotta find the real cause of the melt, and maybe it's sucking a lot of current or something, causing the rest of the car to not get enough)...

[Express]

pics

[jpsimon]

still up in the air, we shall see

[jpsimon]

bump - update.

SA called, they do need to order that cable but labor will only be half what they thought. so ~$940 total instead of $2300.... that's sort of good news at least.

there is some code being thrown about "map overheating". I'm only relaying info from the SA, so she might be mistaken. But she also said the DME might have an issue and need replacing - but it might be covered under some emissions warranty.

[jpsimon]

this guy posted up a service bulletin that sounds exactly like my issue:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...69&postcount=6

[scottp999]

Originally Posted by jpsimon

this guy posted up a service bulletin that sounds exactly like my issue:
http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...69&postcount=6

Here is the diagram on realoem:

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts...67&hg=61&fg=10

Part number from 3/2007 production is 61 12 9 269 907

Does not come up on Tischer. If I were you, I would IM Evan at Tischer and see what they would sell one for. Install looks easy.

The old part number 61129232801 does come up on getbmwparts.com and it's $88.32, so the new part number should be close in price.

If you find, that is what the dealer wants to do, I would do it myself for $90 (and a couple hours) vs. their $940