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Haven't done any pulley change, but I just did a belt change. No special tools, metric sockets and torx. Fan can be removed without removing the air filter housing (and I managed it), but I wouldn't recommend it. Install will certainly be easier without it. Fan is held by one torx on right side, and a clip on left.
In order to remove alternator belt, you need to remove one A/C idler pulley, but thats an easy thing. Belts go on fairly easy, wrap a towel around the spanner when pushing belt tensioners. Note that there are two different routings of the A/C-belt (old cars have belt going over steering pump, on newer belt goes under), so make a note which way your belt runs.
Haven't removed the crank pulley, so I cannot help there.
Important! When you're done, remove the underbody protection and reattach hoses to the underside of the fan shroud.
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