[rwalker]

Originally Posted by Pparana

rwalker,

do you think camber plates would solve the rub?

Reason I ask, I have camber plates, with adjustable Castor and want to mount the lca's for the bushings.

I would like to run 18x8.5 ET 38, with a 255 35 tire square setup for track, and just stock tires for street.

Here's a brief history of my front end. I run GC camber plates.

Stock LCAs, -2.5deg camber:
Street: 18x8.5et37 255/35r18 Michelin PSS, zero clearance issues
Track: 18x9et36 255/35r18 Toyo Proxes R888, minor fender rubbing on track

Once I got F8x LCAs, my street setup had a slight rub in the front fender liner with half a turn of lock, plus a little fender interference at the lip. Also: I bent my front right fender a bit at autocross (track setup). I had to make a couple of changes.

Today's setup, with F8x LCAs, -3.5deg front camber, and rolled fenders:
Street: 18x8.5et42 255/35r18 Michelin PSS, zero clearance issues
Track: 18x8.5et36 255/35r18 Toyo Proxes R88, zero clearance issues

To roll my fenders, I flattened the inner lip flush with the inside of the fender about 3/4 of the way from front to rear. This gives another 2-5mm of clearance (w00t!) while retaining the original outer fender shape.

To do so, I wrapped an 8" long block of 1x2" wood in a soft shop towel (blue ones from Costco). I then clamped the block to the outside of the flat bit of the fender with a couple of plastic helper clamps. Then, I took a large C-clamp and squeezed the lip flat to the inside of the fender, using the block to distribute pressure on the outside. I worked bit by bit, starting from the front of the fender, moving very slowly towards the rear, checking my work every squeeze or two. As I worked along, I also moved the block to keep the squeeze point close to the middle of the block.

You don't want to completely flatten the lip all in one go. Doing so will introduce creases. Flatten it a bit in one spot, the next spot, etc. until you've covered the area you're planning to flatten. Then, rewind completely and start again at the front to get a bit more flattening. It's sort of like multiple coats of paint. I probably went over each fender 4 times.

Also note: the transition from being flat to the curved original profile needs to be gradual to prevent creases from popping up on the outside. I think I used about 2" to transition from flat back to original curved.